When you come to Japan for a motorcycle tour, you will almost certainly use the expressway system at some point.
To help you avoid unexpected trouble, fines, or problems with the police, I’d like to share some important points based on over 25 years of motorcycle touring experience in Japan.
There are quite a few things to know, so this guide will be published in two parts.
This is Part 1, covering the basics.
In this article:
- Which lane you should ride in
- How toll gates work
1. Which Lane Should You Ride In?
Most Japanese expressways have two or three lanes in each direction.
As a general rule, you should always ride in the left lane.
The rightmost lane is designated as a passing (overtaking) lane.
If you continue riding in the right lane without overtaking, you may be stopped by the police for a lane usage violation.

Staying in the right lane for long periods can also cause trouble with faster cars approaching from behind.
To stay safe and legal, just remember this simple rule:
Ride in the left lane. Use the right lane only when overtaking.
2. Understanding Toll Gates
At expressway entrances and exits in Japan, toll gates are usually divided into three types of lanes:
-
Green signs → Staffed cash/card lanes
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Purple signs → ETC-only (electronic toll collection) lanes
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Green + Purple signs → Staffed lanes that accept both cash/card and ETC

In recent years, many toll gates have become unmanned, and more than half of the lanes are now ETC-only.
Some interchanges and urban expressways even have ETC-only entrances and exits.
For this reason, when renting a motorcycle in Japan, it is highly recommended to:
- Add the ETC unit option to your rental
- Rent an ETC card as well
What Happens If You Enter an ETC Lane Without a Card?
If you enter an ETC lane without an ETC card, the gate will not open, and the lane will temporarily be blocked.
This is dangerous, because stopping suddenly at a toll gate can cause cars behind you to rear-end your motorcycle.
If the gate does not open:
- Carefully pass through the gap next to the barrier arm
- Stop in a safe place beyond the gate
- Wait there — a staff member will come to assist you
Important Note About Toll Roads (Not Expressways)
In Japan, there are also toll roads that are not expressways, and they often have similar toll gates.
However, most of these toll roads do NOT accept ETC.
On these roads, you usually need to pay the toll using:
- Cash
- Or a credit card
So please be careful and always check the signs before entering.
In Part 2, we cover lane filtering in traffic jams and how to avoid undercover police cars on Japanese expressways.
Continue reading here